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John Muir: My Life with Nature Chapter V: Forever a Mountaineer |
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My
bread was so hard, I had to throw it against a rock to break
it, then soak the pieces in water. Often, I'd be so excited to
start a day’s adventures that I wouldn’t even boil my tea
water in the morning; instead, I’d stuff my mouth with tea
leaves and pour the water in. It tasted pretty good, if you
had a mind to think so. I camped wherever night found me, and
when the weather turned bad, my secret of staying warm was to
gaze at the wonder of the beautiful scene before me. Sometimes
weary, with only animals to compare notes with, I rested
beneath spicy pines or on the plushy sod of glacial meadows. My
method of study was to drift from rock to rock and grove to
grove. I’d sit for hours watching the birds or squirrels, or
looking into the faces of flowers. When I discovered a new
plant, I sat beside it for a minute or a day, to make its
acquaintance and try to hear what it had to tell me. I asked
the boulders where they came from and where they were going.
And when I discovered a mountain, I climbed about it and
compared it with its neighbors. It's astonishing how high and
far we can climb in the mountains we love, and how little we
require for food and clothing. In 1874, I walked from
Redding, California to Mt. Shasta, a majestic, snow-covered
volcano that rises 10,000 feet above the surrounding
countryside. It was late autumn, and heavy snow blanketed the
mountain. I set out at 2 a.m., hoping to reach the summit
before an approaching storm. In places, I had to wade through
snow as deep as my armpits, and the slope was steep, so my
progress was slow. But the bracing air and the sublime beauty
of the snowy expanse thrilled my every nerve, making
exhaustion impossible. By 10:30 a.m. I had gained the summit. Returning at dusk, I
hollowed out a space behind a big block of lava and
immediately fell asleep. When I awoke the next morning, storm
clouds covered the sky. I quickly gathered as much wood as
possible and staked down my blankets to prevent them from
being blown away. The precious bread sack was positioned
safely as a pillow, and when the first flakes fell I was ready
to welcome them. Day after day the storm
continued, piling snow in weariless abundance. Several times,
when the storm ceased for a few minutes, I had the company of
a frisky Douglas squirrel. Once a large flock of mountain
sheep took shelter near my little nest. Happy and content, I
spent my time examining snow crystals and watching snow flakes
and dwarf pines dancing together in the wind. The storm lasted
about a week, but before it ended I was “rescued.” The
news had spread that there was a man on the mountain, and that
surely he must have perished, but I was as safe as anyone in
the lowlands, lying like a squirrel in my warm, fluffy nest
and wishing only to be left alone. The following April, I spent
a much more perilous night on Mt. Shasta, trapped by a violent
storm at 14,000 feet. The thermometer fell 22° within
minutes, then quickly dropped below zero. Hail gave way to
snow, and darkness came while the wind rose to the highest
pitch of violence and boomed and surged amid the desolate
crags, and lightning-flashes cut the gloomy darkness. My companion, Jerome Fay,
and I made a dash for the “hot springs” just below the
summit. These steam vents spew out hot smoke and gases from
the volcano. “Here,” Jerome said, as we shivered in the
midst of hissing, sputtering fumaroles, “if we lie down we
shall be safe from frost.” The heat became unbearable on
spots where scalding steam escaped directly through the
sludge, and we tried to stop it with snow and mud. The hot
spring’s deadly carbonic gas would kill us if we fell
asleep, so all through the night we called feebly to each
other, "Are you awake?” Two feet of snow fell in just a
few hours, freezing into a stiff, crusty heap as the
temperature fell, adding to our misery. Frozen, blistered,
hungry and numb, our bodies seemed lost to us at times.
Scalded beneath and freezing above, we made the best of it,
for it was our only hope. Finally, the sky cleared and we
gazed at the stars, blessed immortals of light shining with
marvelous brightness. The star clouds of the Milky Way seemed
especially close and I delighted in their radiance and
tranquility. The frost, however, grew
ever more intense, until we were covered over with ice and
crusty snow. After thirteen hours—every hour seemed like a
year—day began to return. We didn’t know if we could walk
back to camp, because we had lain all this time without once
rising to our feet. But mountaineers always seem to discover
reserves of power after a period of deep exhaustion. It’s a
kind of second life, available only in emergencies like this.
I had no great fear that either of us would fail, though one
of my arms was already numb and hung useless. We arose and began our
homeward struggle. Our frozen trousers could scarcely be bent
at the knee, and we waded through the snow with difficulty.
Eventually, we reached the long, final, homeward slopes where
we made rapid progress by sliding, shuffling, and pitching
headlong down the icy mountain. At 10 a.m. we had reached the
trees and knew we were safe; half an hour later, we heard our
friend Sisson shouting for us. He had brought horses to carry
us home. Another time, I spent a more
enjoyable, glorious storm-day near Yuba Pass. When the wind
began to blow, I went outside at once to enjoy it. The
pine trees were in ecstasy, and I longed to join them. Young
sugar pines were bowing almost to the ground, while grand old
trees waved solemnly above them. For hours, I heard the
thunderous crack of trees falling—about one tree every two
or three minutes. I could also clearly hear the different
tones of the trees: closing my eyes, I could effortlessly
identify the special music of pine, fir, and oak. Each tree
sang its own song and danced its own dance. Toward mid-day, I reached
the summit of the highest ridge, where I thought to climb to
the top of a tree to observe the storm and hear the tree’s
glorious music. In a stand of trees growing closely together I
carefully selected the tallest Douglas fir, about 100 feet
high, its lithe brushy top rocking and swirling wildly in the
blasting gale. I had never enjoyed such thrilling motion. I
held on like a bird on a reed while the tree flapped and
swished and swirled back and forth. I remained in my lofty
perch for hours, enjoying the wild wind-music and feasting on
the delicious forest fragrances streaming past me. I finally came down from
the mountains and married when I was 42 years old. I was
nearly 42 years old when I married. All my friends sighed with
relief and said "At last!" My wife, Louie, and I
lived on her family's ranch in Martinez near San Francisco,
and soon we had two daughters, Wanda and Helen. I enjoyed
telling them funny stories and taking them on walks in the
hills. As soon as Wanda could speak, I taught her the names of
the flowers. "For how would you like it," I asked
her, "if people didn't call you by your name?" I was
a proud papa when years later Wanda and Helen accompanied me
on my trips to the Sierra. For ten years I tended our orchards and vineyards.
During that time I was able to earn money to provide for my
family’s future. But seeing that I was working too hard,
Louie sold part of the ranch to give me the freedom to pursue
my mountain studies again. I would leave in late summer and
return just before the harvest. Later we hired a foreman so I
could devote myself completely to my nature work. Louie’s
concern and loving support is something that I’ve always
treasured.
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Excerpts From John Muir: My Life with Nature
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